Master Your Stripology Ruler!
Welcome to the Wiggle Room Scrap Quilt Project!
We’re so glad you’re here! This page brings together the entire journey of making the Wiggle Room quilt from the Master Your Stripology Ruler book—filmed right here at The Nest Retreat Center in Conrad, Iowa.
If you’ve ever wondered how to turn your fabric scraps into something beautiful, you’re in the right place. In these videos, you’ll follow along step-by-step as I:
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Cut scraps into perfect 5" squares using the Stripology ruler
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Sew triangle-squares and prepare blocks for layout
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Use a design wall to arrange and balance color placement
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Sew the quilt top together
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Choose and cut binding and backing from leftover fabrics
You’ll not only see my process in action, but you’ll also pick up practical quilting tips along the way—perfect for beginners wanting to build skills or seasoned quilters looking for new scrap-busting ideas.
I’ll be adding bonus tips and tricks right here on this page to help you make your own Wiggle Room quilt with confidence, from fabric selection to finishing touches. So bookmark this page, grab your scraps, and get ready to be inspired!
Video Progress of Heidi Making Wiggle Room
Cutting and Piecing Tips from Heidi
Cutting your scraps into usable pieces is the first step to turning them into something beautiful. For Wiggle Room, I needed 5-inch squares, so I pulled out my leftover fabrics from the Conway Cottage collection and cut every piece I could find to size. The Stripology Squared ruler made the process quick, accurate, and efficient—perfect for tackling a pile of scraps in no time.
With my 5-inch squares cut, I organized them into a coordinated set for the Wiggle Room pattern. I gathered 40 charm squares in total, making sure to have two of each print for balance. Grouping fabrics this way helps keep the colors and patterns harmonious, making the quilt top more cohesive and visually appealing.
After pairing my charm squares, I used a mini ruler to cut each pair diagonally in half, creating neat triangle units. To keep everything organized, I placed the pieces in a box lid—an easy, budget-friendly way to transport them to the sewing machine. From there, I sewed each pair together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, ready to press and move on to the next step.
When it’s time to sew the paired triangles together, I use a method called chain piecing. This means feeding one pair through the sewing machine right after another, with very little thread between each set. By not raising the presser foot and keeping the pieces moving, I save both thread and time. When finished, I have a long chain of sewn triangles, which I then snip apart and stack neatly, ready to press open at the ironing table.
When it’s time to press the sewn triangles, I like to use steam. I start on the wrong side, giving the seam a good burst of steam to set the stitches. Then, using the tip of the iron, I open the triangles to reveal the triangle-square unit, pressing the seam toward the darker fabric. As I work, I stack the next pair of triangles right on top of the freshly pressed unit so the block underneath gets an extra press—maximizing efficiency and keeping every piece crisp and flat.
Once all the triangle-squares were pressed, I moved to the design wall to start laying them out. It took several tries to find the arrangement I liked best, experimenting with different placements until the colors flowed just right. I used my phone to snap pictures along the way—reviewing the photos gave me a fresh perspective and helped me make final decisions on color balance before sewing the rows together.
When sewing the triangle-squares into rows, I made sure to stitch all the seams in each row in the same direction, then alternate the direction for the next row. This helps the seams nest together neatly when joining rows, making it easier to match points and reducing bulk for a smoother, more professional-looking quilt top.
This step shows how neatly your blocks will lay when you nest your seams correctly. By alternating seam directions in each row, the seams fit together snugly, reducing bulk and creating a smooth finish. I like to secure these points with my favorite silk head pins before heading to the sewing machine—this keeps everything aligned perfectly as I sew the rows together.
A design wall is the perfect tool to help you customize this project to your own style and needs. While the original Wiggle Room pattern calls for four units across and ten units down to create a 16x40-inch table runner, I chose to arrange mine in a 5x8 layout. This adjustment gave me a 20x32-inch table topper, which fit my space better and showed off the fabric prints beautifully.
One of my favorite tips for evaluating a quilt layout is to take a quick photo and convert it to black and white. Removing the color lets you see the design purely in terms of value—light, medium, and dark—so you can spot imbalances or areas that need adjustment. It’s an easy way to fine-tune color placement and ensure your finished quilt has a pleasing flow.
Heidi Finishes Her Quilt on the Longarm!
Watch the Wiggle Room quilt come to life in this start-to-finish longarm quilting time-lapse! In just a few seconds, you’ll see a few minutes of work condensed into smooth, sweeping stitches that transform the flat quilt top into a soft, textured masterpiece. It’s one of the most satisfying steps in the quilting process—next stop, binding!
Quilt Top is Finished!
